After travelling through northern Botswana recently and staying at Desert & Delta Safaris camps in Moremi, Xugana Lagoon, Nxamaseri and Chobe Game Lodge, I came home with a slightly different view of what makes a great safari. Before the trip, if you’d asked me what I was most looking forward to, I would have said the game drives. Botswana is famous for them, after all. Lions, leopards, elephants, buffalo and endless wildlife encounters are what draw most people here.

And the game drives absolutely delivered! In Moremi and Chobe, we enjoyed those classic safari moments that stay with you forever. Predators and prey constantly on the move, elephants appearing around every corner, and the thrill of never quite knowing what might be waiting around the next bend.

What surprised me, though, was just how much I enjoyed the water safaris.

There’s something incredibly peaceful about exploring the Okavango Delta by boat or mokoro. Instead of bouncing along tracks looking for wildlife, you’re quietly drifting through narrow channels, surrounded by reeds, reflections and birdsong. At times we found ourselves gently navigating around hippos surfacing unexpectedly nearby. It’s a good reminder that while a water safari feels tranquil, you’re still very much in the wild. We watched elephants and buffalo crossing waterways, saw crocodiles basking along the banks, and enjoyed the rare privilege of observing animals behaving naturally without the noise or dust of a vehicle. For birdwatchers, it’s hard to beat. Every turn seemed to reveal another spectacular species, from fish eagles and kingfishers to colourful bee-eaters.

The contrast between land and water really came together at Chobe.

On arrival at Chobe Game Lodge, our vehicle was completely blocked by a family of elephants protecting their young. There was nothing to do but sit quietly and wait until they decided we could pass. As safari traffic jams go, it’s a pretty good one. Later, from the river, we watched what felt like an endless procession of elephants arriving at the shoreline. At one point there were around 200 elephants drinking, bathing, sparring and playing in front of us. Some even swam across the river towards Namibia, which is an impressive sight when you realise just how large an elephant actually is.

Then the following morning, back on a game drive, we spent time with a pride of nine lions hunting for breakfast. 

That’s Botswana in a nutshell. One moment you’re quietly drifting through the Delta watching a fish eagle overhead. The next, you’re witnessing the raw drama of predators on the hunt.

Timing can make a difference, depending on your interests.

The peak period for water safaris is generally June to October, when the annual Okavango Delta floods arrive and waterways are at their most accessible. Wildlife viewing is also excellent during this period, as animals congregate around permanent water sources.

The green season from November to March offers a completely different experience. The landscapes are lush, birdlife is prolific and visitor numbers are lower. Prices are often significantly more attractive as well. Wildlife can be more dispersed and some water activities may be limited, but it’s far from a compromise. In fact, my most recent trip was in late November last year and thought it was fantastic.

So, what’s better: a water safari or a game drive in Botswana?

For most travellers, the answer is both. The magic of Botswana lies in the combination. The excitement of tracking wildlife on land, balanced by the serenity of exploring the Delta by water. One provides drama and anticipation. The other offers calm, perspective and a completely different way of experiencing the African wilderness. Together, they create one of the most rewarding safari experiences you’ll find anywhere in Africa.

If you’re considering a Botswana safari, our team can help you design the right combination of camps, activities and timing to match your interests, whether that’s exceptional wildlife viewing, birdwatching, fishing, photography, or simply experiencing one of Africa’s last great wildernesses. Get in touch with Eclipse Travel to start planning your Botswana adventure.

Allison Botha
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